Thursday, May 30, 2019

June Showers?

We have to give it to NOAA, they got May's moisture and temperature forecasts correct, wonder what June holds? If they get the moisture prediction right, we'll for sure have green lawns and save on our water bills. Woo hoo!



Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Hail and Hail and Hail, Oh My

Lions and Tigers and Bears, Oh My. It's scary to think about any direct wild animal encounter. Doubtful it will happen to you. Dorothy, the Scarecrow and the Tin Man met up with a Lion, but we all know he was friendly and cowardly.

How about a different scary encounter, a weather one that wakes you up from a deep sleep at 1:15 in the morning? This time of the gardening season the sounds are undeniably apparent after one, maybe two hits on the roof.

In less then thirty seconds I was fully awake - then up and landed at the patio door to experience the sad crescendo of large, marble sized pellets of destructive hail assaulting the landscape. If you live in the Baker to central Denver to Stapleton neighborhoods, you may be in the same sleep deprived, sad about your landscape state of mind.

Between the leaf litter and battered perennials, it's hard to imagine enjoying dinner outside soon on a quiet summer evening. That will happen for all of us, but what's to be done to a hail damaged landscape in the meantime?
  • Call your trusted tree care company to get in their queue if you see tree limb damage that isn't easily reachable for DIY pruning. No damage for us this time. We had limb damage from last week's storm and it was pruned recently by our competent, experienced, tree professional named Daniel. 
  • For roof and automobile damage, also make the calls. Careful not to let anyone who knocks or calls in the next few weeks sell you a new roof, you know the drill. NO kidding, while writing this blog we had a knock from a fellow wearing an official roofing company shirt with a drone who was ready to send it up and view our roof - at no charge. He used the neighbor's name to start the conversation. We passed.
  • Once things dry out, pick up excess leaf matter around trees, sidewalks and patios. Toss it all in the compost pile.
  • Inspect your plants. Careful not to walk on wet beds, sometimes it's unavoidable. We had covered some of the newest plantings so I was anxious to remove the covers to let them dry for the next time (which is later today and the week, according to the weather folks). 
  • Any broken stems on perennials can be carefully removed, try to let as much of the undamaged foliage remain so it can continue to grow and photosynthesize which generates more food for itself. If the plant has naked stems and very few or no leaves left, it might be a gonner. But I'd still wait a few weeks to see if it recovers before buying new plants.
  • Annual vegetables are probably toast unless you covered. Plenty of time to re-seed and buy more transplants. Same for annual ornamentals in the ground or containers.
  • I've read both schools of thought about applying a light fertilizer to damaged plants after a hail event. Some say go ahead, other reputable sites say no need. To be continued. 
  • The tattered fall planted garlic may be okay, smaller bulbs a big possibility. I plan on removing the heavy leaf mulch tomorrow so the bulbs won't remain too wet which can lead to bulb rot and or poor curing once harvested (in another month or so). 
Damage doesn't look too bad in this early photo, closer inspection tells a different story
The large shade cloth saved 85 percent of the herb bed



I'm MOST worried about the fall planted garlic, it took a major hit, should have covered!

Tuesday, May 21, 2019

After the Storm

Taking your first look at the landscape after a late spring snow storm in Colorado is like viewing your scraped knee immediately after a bike crash. You hope it will be a minor scrape with no deep cuts followed by lasting scars. How'd your knees fair from last night's rain - snow - cold crash? 

And we have another night of this, or so the weather experts say!! Yikes, not happy but love the moisture, not the smashed and broken plants.
Our Splayed Clump Maple

The range of landscape damage is already being posted across social media and local news. The tips and suggestions are fairly straight forward, I'll re-cap them here.
 
First, take a deep breath. I'm taking several deep breaths as I compose this blog.
  • Since we're due for more rain and possibly snow later today or tonight, brush off heavy snow from trees and shrubs - gently, really gently as soon as you can. 
  • I use a soft bristle broom and carefully lift up branches so the snow falls. I also use my hands and lift off snow clumps (have a few extra gloves on hand, they get soaked quickly). 
  • A couple of smaller trees with flexible gymnastic-like bent branches benefit from a VERY gentle shake, wear a hat, prepare for snow down the back of your shirt even with a coat on. 
  • The perennials are tricky to care and comfort after heavy snow. Either leave them alone to dry out or carefully brush off the snow, your call. 
  • Peonies and other tall perennials really took a hit. Sit and cry if it will help. In another day or so when the sun is out take a full survey of the damage. Broken plants need to be pruned. Cut back broken stems on perennials to just above healthy buds or leaves. 
  • Call in your professional tree company to prune large trees and broken or unsafe branches in your yard and over public streets and sidewalks. Immediately call the utility company if branches are over power lines.
  • There's plenty of time to re-plant and re-seed annuals and vegetables if you didn't cover (or the cover was inadequate and the plants didn't make it or will be severely set back in growth). You might want to get to the garden center before Saturday because they will be busy!
Take a few more deep breaths, our scraped landscapes will heal just like our knees.

Additional Resources:

Storm Damaged Trees CSU Video

Local News Reports:

The Denver Post Snow Totals

Washington Park Damage

Biggest Late Snow in 44 Years 

Snow Damage Video

Monday, May 20, 2019

Bundle Up Your Plants!

Large Plastic Container over New Herb Plants
There's no other way to say this - if you've planted ANY NEW transplants the past couple of weeks, they would greatly benefit from covering the next few nights. If you don't protect them the risk of delayed, unhappy growth or death is certain. Your choice.

The short list of plants include vegetable starts like tomatoes, peppers, tomatillo and ornamental annuals like geraniums, petunias, marigolds. Same for perennials, including herbs. ANYTHING newly planted needs protection. The exceptions are trees and most shrubs, they should be just fine if they had been growing outside when you planted them.

Why cover? These newby plants haven't established their root systems and many have been growing in warm, humid, greenhouse conditions. They simply cannot take the abrupt weather changes of cold rain and snow.

Transplants in Garage
Bring all non-planted transplants indoors.

Avoid placing plastic directly over the plant if the plastic will be touching the foliage. Plastic materials will conduct cold directly to the plant. The container in the photo above is much wider and taller than the new herbs below, so no risk of transferring any cold. The open side drainage holes won't allow enough cold to hurt the plants. 

Other items for cover - cardboard boxes (plastic on top may prevent the box from collapsing in heavy rain/snow), clothes basket, again cover with plastic if sides are open, garbage cans. Floating row cover is ideal to keep plants warm. A bed sheet will suffice in a pinch or beach towels. Sheets, old shower curtains and towels may bog down in heavy conditions so try to support them with a tomato cage or similar. Be sure to remove covering when we're back in the 50s the day after the weather event. Cover again with dried out materials when nights are in the 40s.

Peony Cage over Annual Geraniums
Floating Row Cover over Peony Cage

Clear Plastic OVER Floating Row Cover for Extra Warmth & Protection




Thursday, May 16, 2019

Plant Shopping at its BEST!

Garden friends - this weekend is ideal to shop at your favorite local garden centers and independent plant sales. Click the link below for sales near you, or shop them all!
 
Once you have your transplants home, keep them well attended in a sheltered area outside as they harden off in preparation for in ground or container planting. 

Obviously if the plants have been growing outside, they're ready to go in the ground - if unsure if they're ready, ask the friendly staff or folks hosting the plant sale. If you hold off on planting, keep them watered, not too wet and near a sunny window. A garage should be just fine, provided they get adequate light and it's not too cold at night.
 
Looking ahead to next week, we're in for cooler days AND nights, so if you plant this weekend, be sure to cover on days and nights in the forties. Personally I'm holding off to plant tomatoes, eggplant and peppers until after this next cold snap. I have several new herbs planted already, I plan on covering.

Friday, May 10, 2019

Moisture is Great ... the Weeds Await

Dandelions gone to seed
If plants in our landscapes could talk after the recent rainy days, they'd say "watch me now!" My gain gauge topped out at 1.3 inches for the past three days of rain, snow and cold, no complaints. 

Weeds are just as happy and kicking into high gear growth mode. Dandelions have already bloomed and spread their progeny seed. We'll be seeing dandelions all growing season. Bindweed is up, out and weaving quickly in hard to reach places in my landscape. My attitude with bindweed is "you can grow, but you cannot hide," when I see it, I yank it hard "take that evil weed!"

Two Types of Weeds
Annual weed seeds dropped last fall will germinate this spring through mid-summer. Obviously letting them go to seed in the first place ensures their return from year to year. These include crabgrass, purslane, knotweed and common chickweed. 

Perennial weeds return every year if not removed. Common perennial weeds include dandelion, bindweed, Canada thistle, mallow and broadleaf plantain. A lot of any weeds can easily take the focus off your flower blooms. 

Weeds can host pest insects like thrips or leafhoppers which are known for carrying diseases that can infect tomatoes and several ornamental plants like purple coneflower, asters, mums and cosmos. 

Dealing with Weeds - Landscape Tips 
  • Any exposed or disturbed soil or bare ground in the landscape is an invitation for weed growth. Plant open areas with shrubs or perennials (well mulched) or add hardscape features like walkways or a patio.  
  • Work on growing and maintaining a healthy lawn. A few lawn weeds are okay. Overuse of broadcast herbicides may reduce lawn vigor. 
  • Hand dig for immediate removal (and satisfaction), or identify the weeds and carefully spot treat with sprays. 
  • Be sure to read all labels to learn if the product will work on the identified weed and for application information. 
  • Products labeled as non-selective will harm or kill ornamental plants as well. Incorrect application of lawn weed products often results in areas of dead lawn. Read the label!
  • Stronger horticultural vinegar and organic weed products containing botanical oils are an option and work well on weeds between flagstones.  Try boiling water over weeds in tight spaces. Repeated application may be required for tougher weeds.
  • Bindweed
  • Never spray any products on windy days when drift can harm close by plants, pets, people, birds or fish.
  • Battle bindweed even if it may take years, you’ll eventually tire it to death with consistent removal and or use of weed sprays.
  • Weed fabric use is commonly used by homeowners, but weeds often grow on top of the barrier and then find their way below and through the fabric. A 2-3 inch mulch layer works well on its own to keep weeds down and they are much easier to pull. 
  • Mulch is your friend; it suppresses weed growth and keeps soils cool, which also reduces watering needs. 
Many female trees including ash, honeylocust and crabapple form seeds that sprout in lawns or just about anywhere, the worst offender being Siberian elm trees. These tenacious tree weeds grow in the most peculiar spots and generally grow unnoticed until they are well rooted and difficult to remove. Mowing will keep tree seeds from maturing. Try raking and moving the mulch around where seeds are taking hold to dislodge.

Remove (cut) suckers in lawn and near tree
Suckers from aspen, sumac and other trees can become a nuisance in lawns. They take nutrients away from the main tree. Pull or cut them at any time they reappear during the growing season. Use sucker stop products on the market with care and according to label instructions.


Take note that some weeds can be culinary gourmet greens like dandelions, purslane and lamb’s quarter, which happen to be delightfully edible when young and not sprayed with herbicides. 

Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Why Stress, Move 'Em Inside

Wagering a good guess here that you have some purchased garden center plants that are resting outside just waiting to be put in the ground on Mother's Day. This can't wait spirit happens to every gardener I know (including myself). Resistance is low and futile in waiting to buy plants close to the the so-called final spring frost date, then hardening them off for several days, and finally planting them in their new garden home.

I purchased plants over two weeks ago, then again a few days ago. Where are they right now? As you can see from the photos they are inside near a south facing window and downstairs under grow lights. Technically the perennials in the top photo were growing outside at the garden center so they are hardened off and ready for planting after the final spring frost. I could have kept them outside - tossed a floating row cover over them and called it good thinking they'd be fine, but why sweat it?

The yellow pansies have been growing in a container outside for weeks, I just liked the way they look in the foreground of the photo so brought them inside too.

Stowing new plant purchases inside a garage or home for the next couple of nights until we're well out of the low 40s isn't strenuous moving and makes for a stress free start to the garden season. 

My hands are ready for digging in the soil, but my brain knows not to plant until nights are consistently near or above fifty-five degrees. Exceptions are hardened off cool season vegetables and direct seeded ornamental annuals that can be seeded right before or near the final spring frost date (check your seed packet).

Perennials Inside Near a South Facing Window
Warm season Vegetables and Herbs under Lights

Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Soil Test Enlightenment

Just like lipid panel results from your doctor, a soil test sees and tells all. Want some enlightening data on how you care for your body or garden soil - take a test.

Soil testing my raised vegetable beds was long overdue, it'd been seven years since my previous test. In that time period I renewed the soil every so often with added bagged compost, fertilizers, plus I grew cover crops to improve soil structure, fertility and keep the soil in the beds protected during the winter months. 

For the most part my vegetable plants produced fine since 2012. I had a couple of tough seasons keeping them well watered, the soil is super fast draining (then and now) and the weather was pretty darn hot the past two summers. A couple of seasons my tomatoes suffered from Early Blight and Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus. One season my direct seeded basil came down with downy mildew, no more raised bed planting for my basil, now I seed exclusively in Smart Pot containers. 
  
Below are the results from 2012 and 2019. Normal ranges are in parentheses under the 2012 column. *See notes at end of the results for more information. Testing was done both times at the Colorado State University Soil, Water and Plant Testing Laboratory in Ft. Collins, CO.

                                                        2012                                                       2019

pH*  7.3 High (6 to 7.2)                                                                               7.6 High
Electrical Conductivity or Salts  4.3 very high (less than 2.0 is fine)          0.3 Low
Lime  less than 1% (over 2% is high)                                                        less than 1%
Texture Estimate Sandy Loam                                                                  Sandy Loam
Sodium Absorption Rate, not requested in '12                                          0.7 Low (good)
Organic Material 3.1 Low (up to 5%)                                                      6.4 High (not good)
Nitrate* 139 ppm Very High (not good)  (10 to 50 ppm)                  10.0 ppm Low (not good)
Phosphorus* 100 ppm High (not good) (10-45 ppm)                                 94.8 High (not good)
Potassium 1759 ppm High (not good) (<200)                                  533.5 ppm High (not good)
Zinc  9.9 ppm Adequate (<100 ppm)                                                       19.1 ppm Adequate
Iron 52.2 ppm Adequate  (<10 may be deficient)                                  54.9 ppm Adequate
Manganese 6.8 ppm Adequate (<40 -50 ppm)                                         7.7 ppm Adequate
Copper 3.7 ppm Adequate (<20-30 ppm)                                                  4.3 ppm Adequate
Boron*  1.04 High (1 ppm or less is adequate)                                           0.50 ppm High
                                    
*pH: is the acidity or alkalinity measurement of the soil. On the pH scale, 7.0 is neutral, below 7 is acidic, above 7 is base or alkaline. The levels have to do the properties of long time established soil and the climate. Many parts of the country with good moisture have acidic soils, so naturally here in CO, we run on the alkaline side. 6.0 to 7.2 is the preferred range for good plant growth. Our plants can fairly easily tolerate 7.2 to 7.9 pH levels if the correct supplemental nutrients are added. Soil pH influences the quality of plant growth and nutrient availability to plants.

Lowering the pH isn't easy and takes time and work. One hurdle to changing pH is the free lime content, if high (over 2%), then any added soil acidifiers such as sulfur are neutralized so won't change the pH. Click here and scroll to page 222-2 for more information.

*Nitrate: 20 ppm to 50 ppm nitrate-N is needed for good growth of trees, shrubs and turf. For vegetables and flowers, the amount of N required depends on the soil Organic Matter or O.M. content. If the soil O.M. is 5% or greater, then 10 ppm N is required for good plant growth. If the O.M. is less than 1%, then 50 ppm N is required for good growth. 

*Boron: any reading above 4 ppm is toxic to plants. If the level is too low than the soil lab is very specific when recommending how much to add because even a small amount can be too much and cause plant harm.

In 2012 our beds were filled with a vegetable specific "planters mix" of soil from a reputable sand and gravel company here in Denver. I took soil samples for testing this new soil the day it arrived for filling the empty (newly built) raised beds. 

The soil test result notes advised me to leach the beds with 6-12 inches of water to push excessive salts deeper into the soil to dilute the salt effect. Effective leaching depends on using quality water and having good drainage. Despite the high Nitrate in '12, plants produced fruit and leafy crops did fine. Often too much Nitrate will result in bushy plants with small or fewer fruit. The leaching in my case helped dilute the high salt level. 

Why the other changes in my soil from 2012 to now? That's easy, I added stuff in the form of composts (store bought) and incorporated cover crops which added more O.M. and fertility. I also added dry fertilizers, mostly slow release organic type. My O.M is high, no need to add any more bagged soil or turned over cover crops for a few years. 

The fertilizer I used contained both *phosphorous and potassium, clearly not needed based on the results. Colorado alkaline soils contain plenty of both of these nutrients. However, they can be low if it's a new planting area where O.M is low or if the pH is high - 7.8 - 8.3. For more reading on phosphorous and potassium, click here. Scroll to page 232-5.

What jumps out is the low Nitrate level in 2019. Clearly my vegetables used up what nitrogen was available since 2012 and what I added since that time wasn't enough. The comments on the soil test suggested adding 0.3 lb N/100 square feet. They listed urea, ammonium sulfate, bloodmeal, corn gluten meal or alfalfa meal pellets as Nitrate options. I'll use bloodmeal since I have it on hand. Be careful if adding corn gluten meal because not only is it an organic nitrogen source, it will prevent seeds from germinating for a few weeks - any seeds like lettuce or other direct seeded ornamentals, vegetables and some weeds. 

Finally - what's the bottom line take away from a soil test? A test will tell you all about your soil fertility levels. Call it - "healthy growing potential." We've been conditioned to add more fertilizer and soil amendment year after year to improve fertility and soil structure. There may be limits to what your soil actually needs to achieve its best growing potential.

Additional Resources:

A Little Soil Sleuthing can Save You

Do You Know Dirt About Soil? Here's a Three-step Primer

Soil Testing: It's a Good Thing

How Your Soil Test Results are like a Margarita

Interpreting Soil Tests: Unlock the Secrets to Your Soil from New Mexico State University Extension, helpful, they have similar soil conditions to CO 

Soils, Fertilizer and Soil Amendments - Several Topics to Choose