Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Front Range Garden Class Resources - UPDATED


Garden Friend - there have been several garden events added since this blog was posted earlier in the year. There are many excellent opportunities to learn about gardening or topics related to gardening. 

Please click on the link below to take you to the blog. I update it often and it is posted as the Featured Post in the left side of my blog, so check back often if you wish. Many of these classes, symposiums and day-long conferences are fairly low cost or free.

Click HERE for Front Range Garden Class Resouces 2019

Keep in mind that some library branches and garden centers are offering free or low cost classes as well, just too many to list them all in this resource. Check your favorite library and garden center's website or Facebook page for upcoming classes. 

Sunday, February 24, 2019

Lamb or Lion March 2019?

It's near the end of February, time to look ahead to March weather - will it be a Lion or Lamb month? Last year at this time we were experiencing balmy conditions, many days in the sixties and little, if any precipitation. Overall, it seemed like winter skipped us. Not this year - yes, I'm smiling as I write this. Here are the stats from NOAA -
  • For the Denver area so far this year (Feb. 25) we've had 1.46 inches of precipitation, normal is .71. Exact totals vary depending on what part of the Front Range you reside.
  • Our temperature averages should be around thirty-four degrees. Since January 1, we're averaging twenty degrees, so below normal temperatures. 
  • In case you're wondering, our wettest March since 1872 happened in 1983 with 4.56 inches. The driest March was 2012 with only 0.03 inches. The warmest March was in 1910, averaging 50.4 degrees. The coldest was in 1912 averaging 26.4 degrees. 
Some may say we're having an exceptionally snowy, cold winter which is easy to conclude since we haven't experienced one for a couple of years. I say the snowier the better from now until spring. And it can rain like cats and dogs in April. You may recall the rainy 2015 we had which mostly occurred in May and June - not great timing for getting the garden planted. In our dry climate, it's simply not possible to complain about getting too much moisture - ever.

Internet photos from NOAA







Saturday, February 16, 2019

Bareroot Plants - Yes, No, Maybe?

The anticipation of the new gardening season is more than apparent when visiting a garden center in February. They are just as excited as you to get growing. Retailer's shelves and displays of discounted holiday do dads are moved away and replaced with all sorts of garden must haves including bareroot plants. You in? Will you be stopping by soon to stock up on blackberry and bareroot rose plants? So what's the deal with bareroot plants!
Bareroot Selection in Local Garden Center

Let's clarify the correct spelling first. Some sites and retailers write bareroot, others say bare root. I don't know the answer whether it's supposed to be one word or two. Some even add a hyphen and write bare-root. Maybe it's a tomato, tomahto thing, although I haven't heard a Gershwin song written about bareroot plants. Let's just agree to recognize and understand them no matter what the spelling.

What are bareroot plant?  They're all about the timing.

Just like the name suggests, plants with no soil medium around the roots are bare. Bareroot plants are dormant, meaning they are not actively growing so they are not leafed out or blooming. They start out as growing plants in the ground at a wholesale nursery or grower for the retail market and online sales. Plants are then dug from the ground in the fall after they have gone dormant. Once removed from the ground, surrounding soil around the roots are shaken away, plants are refrigerated, and stored until shipping begins to garden centers or directly to you, the customer. Bareroot plants are much lighter in weight which saves on mailing or freight costs.

Local independently owned garden centers often order bareroot plants from wholesale growers to either sell as bareroot to you OR to pot up and sell later. This is common for trees, shrubs, roses, vines and perennials. Once potted by the retailer and placed in warm, sunny, greenhouse conditions, the plant will kick into healthy new growth and often be rooted in the container ready for planting in your garden later in spring.

The plants to look for in garden centers that are bareroot include fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, roses, perennials, strawberry crowns, raspberry "handles," blackberries and asparagus crowns. Not all garden centers sell these types of plants, so call around or visit your favorite local store, you may need other garden supplies anyway. 

It's somewhat difficult to tell if the bareroot plant you just purchased is healthy since they mostly look dead. Examine them upon receipt or while in the store (not easy when they are packaged). They shouldn't be moldy or have odor other than an earthy-type smell. Branching and stems shouldn't be broken, or be too light in weight which might indicate they've dried up. The plant should grow and leaf out the first year planted.
Bareroot Roses Being Potted Up

Bareroot Care   
Ordering a bareroot plant on online or buying locally usually takes some planning. Either you have pre-dug the planting hole when the soil was workable, not frozen or wet (maybe last fall). If you didn't pre-dig but still have dry, workable soil, then you're in luck. 

The goal of bareroot planting soon after purchase is to get them planted before growth begins, basically keeping them status quo as dormant until their normal growth cycle begins in spring. In Colorado that means the bareroot planting season can be as early as late February into April.

If bareroot plants can't be planted within a few days, keep them cool and the roots moist, but not wet. An unheated garage, cold basement or crawl space will work. If there's a foot of snow on the area and it will be weeks before it can go in the ground, then pot up the bareroot plant with fresh potting soil into a sterilized container, cover all the roots with soil. Water it after planting and keep it cool, same conditions above. Try not to wrangle too much with the roots by breaking them, treat them gently, they're the life force of your new plant!

Let's Plant
Grafted Fruit Tree Intenet Photo orangepippintrees.co
Prior to planting, soak the area of roots in room temperature water, a five gallon bucket works well for most plants. Soak woody plants (trees, shrubs) for several hours or overnight, perennials, asparagus and fruits need just thirty minutes or so. The planting hole should be more wide than deep to accommodate the length, plus some extra room (two to three inches) for the roots to be spread out. Place it in the whole at the same depth they were growing in the nursery, or at the crown for perennials, root flare for trees. You should easily be able to discern the crown and root flare - where the roots start and the top shoots begin. Spread the roots out evenly in the hole.

Fill the hole with the removed soil, not adding too much organic matter, otherwise the roots aren't inclined to reach out and establish. It's helpful to enlist assistance for holding the tree or shrub upright while adding soil around the roots. Firm the soil in the hole - but don't hard pack, just enough to prevent air pockets. If the tree is grafted (often the case with fruit trees), be sure the graft is up above ground (above the root flare) one to three inches, same for roses. Once planted, mulch, water it well, no need to fertilize at planting. If staking is needed, place it close to the tree, not in the planting hole, near enough to use nylon traps - only needed for six to twelve months. 

Additional Online Resources for Bareroot Planting -

Growing Raspberries in Colorado Gardens 

Growing Strawberries in Colorado Gardens

How to Plant Bareroot Perennials

How to Plant Bareroot Trees and Shrubs

How to Plant Rhubarb, Asparagus and Horseradish 

Tree Planting No-No's! this is geared more toward planting container or balled and burlapped trees in May, but the same principles apply about planting depth, root flare, and staking

Vegetable Garden Hints


Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Luck, Legend and Romance - Must be Valentine's Day

Combine luck, legend, romance, gift-giving and the beginning of the bird mating season and you have Valentine’s Day covered. This time of year writers and bloggers delight in penning about its origins and traditions. Many stories trace back to ancient Roman and Christian practices plus some folk legends. I mainly just want to get to the flowers but learning the history is fun too.

A story from the third century refers to one of the three Catholic Church’s martyred saints named Valentine who continued performing marriage ceremonies in secret, defying the Roman Emperor Claudius II’s ban. Evidently the emperor felt that single men made better soldiers, the married ones with families must not have been as focused on their soldiering career. When Claudius found out about the secret marriages he had Valentine put to death (probably by the hand of one of the single guys).

The ancient Romans observed ‘Lupercalia,’ a pagan fertility festival dedicated to the Roman god of Agriculture – Faunus. After a full day of animal sacrifices woman placed their names in an urn (hats probably weren’t invented yet) and their names drawn by the bachelor men. You can guess what happened next, either the couples ended up in marriage, or tried their luck again the following February. Pope Gelasius I in the fifth century banned Lupercalia for its unchristian like conduct and re-named February 14 St. Valentine’s Day.
 
Robin photo from georgiawildlife.com
Who can forget the commencement of the bird-mating season in mid-February, first written about by four English authors, Geoffrey Chaucer being the most famous. In 1382 he wrote Parliament of the Fowls in honor of the engagement between England’s Richard II and Anne of Bohemia, daughter of the Roman Emperor Charles IV -For this was on Saint Valentine’s day, when every fowl comes there his mate to take...”

Perhaps the oldest known Valentine poem was written in 1415 by Charles, Duke of Orleans to his wife while he was imprisoned in the Tower of London after the battle of Agincourt. You can actually read this poem in the British Library in London. Today there are over one hundred and fifty million Valentine cards exchanged each year. E-Valentine cards are gaining in popularity (sorry, just not the same as written cards in my book).

Cut flowers, roses and all the various types of bouquets surely are the true measure of ones' feelings toward another. Charles II of Sweden in the early 1700s introduced the language of flowers where entire sentiments, practically whole conversations could take place based on the type of flowers that were exchanged. The red rose takes top billing as the symbol of beauty and love. Pink is a close second to red roses signifying appreciation, gratitude and love. White roses are associated with marriage, new beginnings and spirituality. Ah…orange roses…passion and enthusiasm while yellow means good health, joy and friendship.
   
Easy Care Succulent Dish
You can’t go wrong sending roses for Valentine’s Day, but other cut flowers, even plants, score meaningful points too. If roses aren’t in the budget or lacking availability try tulips, chrysanthemums and carnations which also say I'm yours. A succulent dish is super easy care to care for and never more popular. 

Violets convey affection or give an orchid to communicate delicate beauty and charm. Forget-me-nots are synonymous with, well you know… forget-me nots.

Flowers and plants can evoke negativity too. Give someone a lavender plant to say you don’t trust them or you’re devoted to them (your choice, choose wisely). Willows indicate sadness, while a narcissus means you’re selfish or your love is unrequited. And careful on what you bring to a potluck, basil, the main ingredient in pesto means hatred! No worries, in other circles basil means love and well wishes.

Enjoy Valentine’s Day this year by saying it with a handwritten card or flowers or both. And if you’re concerned about sending the wrong message Forrest Gump might suggest a box of chocolates!

This post is revised from my 2-11-2015 blog.

Monday, February 11, 2019

Rabbit Talk at the Garden and Home Show

Recently I had the opportunity to answer gardening questions at the Colorado Garden and Home Show here in Denver. If you've never been to this yearly February event, give it a go, it's fun and you'll get in some serious walking, people gawking and view the latest hot tub features. It runs through February 17, 2019 at the Colorado Convention Center.

The questions were very interesting, yet similar considering the gardeners were from different Front Range counties and all around the state. The number one question asked of me is how to keep rabbits from eating the landscape. Second question was where's the booth where they give free foot massages, didn't see one, but I saw the booth with the relaxing back shiatsu chairs.
Internet Photo

Rabbits - those cute, furry cotton-tailed trouble makers in the garden. Hey, all they want is a free meal and to be left alone while eating, unless their whole family has been invited to dine, count on it. 

I'll start with my rabbit story, see if it coincides with yours. It's short, one day I didn't see them, the next day I did, and the next day, and the next day. I only saw them eating the lawn because it was early spring when plant leaves were still emerging. The lettuce hadn't even been planted yet. We started with one rabbit, then their friend or friend with benefits showed up. If they could talk, I'm sure they'd say we had the best tasting grass turf in town. I'm not too proud to say it, we grow yummy lawn (you probably do too).

Ferris loved the rabbits, not that he ever caught one or even got close. He'd head outside after his free breakfast and immediately smell foreign herbivores on the premises and commence to seek and find. The rabbits caught on quickly that their meal needed to be cut short, time to dine and dance out the way they came through the wide spaced wrought iron thirty foot fence. 

Gone for the day, but not forgotten, this rabbit herd had the keys to the backyard. The sad part, no key was ever needed, the wrought iron gate south fence was easy entry whenever Ferris wasn't outside on guard duty. 

My first line of defense was to try the anti-critter granules. A little doesn't go a long way, nor does the entire box. The rabbits laughed and returned each night. I wasn't going to spend any more money on sprays, urine of predator foxes or hanging bars of Irish Spring soap. They don't work well or long term. We didn't want to use a motion detector sprinkler, which I've read can work fairly well, but not during the winter months. 

It took me a few days to react to this immediate threat to our Michelin three-star rated lawn. I was hoping they'd forget our address, no such luck. The only effective long term way to keep rabbits out of your landscape is to block them out. Let's just call it rabbit proofing. So I did what every self motivated gardener would do - scavenge the tool shed and back side of the garage for left over fencing of any length, hoping beyond hope that the openings were small enough to keep out baby bunnies that were soon to arrive on the scene. 

What I found, worked. I twist tied old fencing over an old plastic green fence I put up first to protect the wrought iron. I didn't want any scratches to the wrought iron in the short term before I figured out a better looking long term solution. I was about four feet short so had to purchase a mesh piece from the hardware store. It looked like a do it yourself hodgepodge cover up of a nice wrought iron fence, not pretty in the least.
8-inch trenched 1 x 1 inch vinyl coated 16 gauge wire fence

Looks aren't everything, at least temporarily. I was happy with the instant proofing, no rabbits the next morning, Ferris was sad.

The shoddy, make do fence lasted five years. After we got tired of the functional eyesore (no photos, thank goodness), we enlisted our experienced landscape contractor to install a proper rabbit proof fence.

The grading and digging required more than our DIY mindset, glad we hired out. A four foot tall vinyl coated, sixteen gauge one inch by one inch fence was trenched to eight inches deep on the outside of the wrought iron fence. I found the fence online after several dead-end phone calls and trips to hardware stores. Either the length wasn't right or made with vinyl coating to protect the wrought iron.

It was a tricky installation since this fenced area is sloped, plus the gate had to have just enough clearance to open. It all worked out very nicely. The finished job looks like a fence on a fence but somewhat blends in from a distance. The rabbits have moved down the block so Ferris and I pass them on afternoon walks. He's always happy to see them - from a distance.

Fence attached to a fence to keep out rabbits

Here are some handy links on dealing with rabbits in your yard -


Critter Resistant Plants for the Mountains 

Cottontail Rabbit, Minimizing Damage

Ravishing Rabbit Revenge

Friday, February 1, 2019

Seeding and Planting Charts - All of Them!

With the first month of the new year behind us, gardeners are focused on one thing ... the countdown to spring. We know in Colorado dates don't necessarily equate to the exact time or window to actually start planting outdoors. We often get snow in May. An excellent resource for climate summaries in Colorado that may also help you plan, click here.

When are all the best windows of indoor and outdoor seeding, planting and firing up the outdoor grill?  You've come to the right place, all my seeding and planting charts are here in one blog location. As for the grill, why even put it away for the season - we use ours all year.

For newbies or a review, here is a summary of the outdoor growing seasons along the Front Range. Add a couple of weeks or more for higher elevations. These windows and my charts below should help you plan when you'll start seeds indoors or direct seed outdoors or when the tomato plants purchased over Mother's Day weekend go in the ground.

There are three overlapping seasons to plant and direct seed outdoors. The cool-season planting period ranges anywhere from March to the first of May. These include cool-vegetables like spinach, peas and beets and cool-season annuals like pansy, calendula and sweet peas. Keep in mind that cool-season planting or direct seeding is all dependent on the weather - if snow is on the ground or it's raining or snowing from mid-March to mid-May, the cool-season planting window may either be delayed or skipped. Using tunnels, row covers and cloches are recommended if the weather isn't cooperating.

The warm-season window is anywhere from mid-May to the first of July and includes herbs like basil, vegetables - tomatoes, peppers, squash and corn, plus annuals - petunias, marigolds, sunflowers and cosmos. Hardy perennials, shrubs and trees can be planted during this time as well and all the way to early fall. The exception is to try to avoid planting when temperatures are extremely warm. It can be done, but pay close attention to watering and providing some shade.

Mid-summer is when the third season planting window begins - mostly cool-season vegetables that mature in sixty days or less and warm-season crops that also have a shorter maturity date like summer summer squash, okra and basil.

The timing, seeding and planting information on seed packets vary per company. Some mention soil temperatures or map zones as guides to direct seed outdoors, or a certain number of days from frost dates to start seeds indoors. Pay attention and familiarize yourself with the seed packet information. My charts try to accommodate most seed company packages. For tips on reading packets - Understanding the Seed Packet.
 
Vegetable seeds that you need to get started very soon indoors for early transplanting out in March to April include -  broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, parsnips, onions and celery. Tunnels or cold frames are recommended for early planting when freezes and frosts are the norm. Soil conditions need to be spot on too, not too wet, frozen or cold.

Keep in mind that if you miss the window to start your seeds indoors, you can always purchase cool-season transplants at garden centers starting in late winter into spring, and later in the spring for warm-season plants. Warm-season seeds are generally started indoors in late March to April for late May transplanting.