There's Something Special About Basil

Garden Friend - I thought you might like to read my recent garden article that ran in The Denver Post about growing and using basil.

Link to The Denver Post article, click HERE. The full article is below.

There’s something special about growing your own basil in Colorado

Here are some of the many faces (and uses) of this wonderful herb

There are scores of cultivated basil varieties available, including Thai basil, lime basil, lemon basil, sweet basil, Napolitano, Genovese and dark opal basil. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)

By Betty Cahill | Special to The Denver Post

June 11, 2024

One of the many pleasures and essences of the outdoor growing season is basil. What other edible herb breathes so much flavor and summer sunshine into a dish? If basil conjures romantic dreams of dining on a hilly Tuscan terrace, then join the throngs of others who find basil to be, if not No. 1, then right up there as the most popular summer-grown herb in America.

Basil’s unique, intoxicating flavor might be described as spicy-sweet floral with undertones of pepper and mint and, according to some palates, mild anise with hints of clove. Basil’s essential oils live in microscopic sacs on parts of the plant. The sacs are ruptured (in a good way for smell and taste) each time the plant is chewed or rubbed.

There are scores of cultivated basil varieties available, including Thai basil, lime basil, lemon basil, sweet basil, Napolitano, Genovese and dark opal basil. Seeds offer more selection than transplants.

Basil is in the botanical family group called Lamiaceae, which includes the large collection of plants that are characterized by square stems and opposite leaves. Other herbs in this family include rosemary, thyme, mint and lavender. Basil leaves range in color from green to purple or a mixture of the two. Leaves vary in size, from small as a dime to as large as an open hand. Some varieties have smooth leaves; others are hairy, even puckered. The flowers are located in the axils of the leaves or in very loose spikes with the flowers separated along the stem. Flowers are either lavender or white.

Seeding directly outdoors or in containers

To prevent flowering, begin pruning basil stems as early as the six to eight-leaf stage. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)

Sowing the seeds directly into your garden beds or containers is the easiest method to start basil and plant enough for several dishes all summer long and to preserve leaves for fall and winter use. The three most important factors for germination and growth are soil quality, high nighttime temperatures and proper soil moisture. Warm soil is needed, as is warm ambient air. Soil and air temperatures should be 55 consistent degrees or more at night. Seeds sown too early may rot in spring rains; transplants can stunt or stop growing with cool day or nighttime temperatures.

Prepare the outdoor soil bed or location as you normally would for seeding and transplanting other vegetables outdoors. Rake the area carefully to create a fine, crumbly seedbed free of rocks and debris. Scatter seeds as evenly as possible over the soil (1/8 inch deep) so they’re close together; cover lightly with more soil and water.

Use new sterile potting soil when seeding into containers, then follow the same instructions as in-ground planting. Here’s a quick video primer on seeding in containers.

Water regularly so the soil around the seeds does not dry out. Seedlings emerge in five to 10 days. The warmer the temperatures, the quicker seeds germinate. After planting, water thoroughly to keep the seedbed moist. Use a watering can or a hose with a fine spray to water gently so seeds don’t wash away or dislodge the new seedlings. Seeds are great value compared to transplants, so keep plants coming by seeding every couple of weeks in the summer through August.

To utilize the basil plant for culinary use, the plant must not be allowed to flower ever during the growing season. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)

The first leaves on basil seedlings are D-shaped “nurse” leaves that will be replaced by the normal foliage. Once the seedlings have their first or second set of true leaves, start thinning to the size of the area in which you wish to grow the plants.

Seedlings should be thinned until the plants stand 3 to 4 inches apart. Use scissors to snip off extra seedlings at soil level; pulling them out could injure the remaining, nearby seedlings. Toss any thinned basil in your mouth for a jolt of flavor.

If you’re seeding outdoors as micro-greens (one of my favorite methods of growing basil)m then there’s no need to thin the plants: Let them grow densely together and harvest as you would with growing microgreens indoors, when they are young and small.

Transplanting to the garden or in containers

Harden off all transplants that have been growing indoors. Site the plants or container where they will receive the most sun and air circulation. Space plants 3-4 inches apart in the ground or in the container. Larger plants like African Blue (grown more for ornamental then culinary use) may need up to 3 feet of spacing. Plant at the same level they were growing in the container. Water with a soft mist sprayer so plants don’t fall over. Fertilize every two weeks with half-strength liquid fertilizer.

Growing more basil from cuttings

If you’re seeding basil outdoors as micro-greens (one of my favorite methods of growing basil)m then there’s no need to thin the plants: Let them grow densely together and harvest as you would with growing microgreens indoors, when they are young and small. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)

Any basil type can be grown from a stem tip cutting. It can all be done very inexpensively with a cup of water in a short glass. Use cuttings from tips of nonflowering stems on vigorous plants that have 8-10 leaves. Plants grown in full sun produce the best cuttings, so this procedure makes sense to propagate more plants for your outdoor garden or to share with friends. Make sure cuttings are taken from disease- and bug-free plants.

Procedure: Cut stems about 4 inches long using sharp, clean scissors. Strip the leaves from the lower half. Fill cups with water so that only the bare stems are immersed. Fit three or four cuttings in the cup or jar.

Place on windowsill that receives plenty of light. Change the water daily to prevent bacteria buildup. Purple basil roots slower than green basil. Green will grow roots in 1-2 weeks. Once well rooted, plant them in a 5- to 6-inch container, one cutting per pot. Punch drainage holes in the paper or plastic cup. Carefully add the rooted stem cutting to the cup with some sterile potting soil on the bottom and then add soil around the cutting. Place the potted cuttings on a sunny windowsill or under grow lights for a week or two.

Care for them just as transplanted seedlings. In a few weeks, they will be ready for transplanting outdoors in the ground or a container.

Pest control

Unfortunately, Japanese beetles find basil leaves to their liking. One easy, inexpensive prevention tip is to grow plants under lightweight mesh covers or bridal veil. Basil does not need pollination when grown for leaf use so covers can be used all season. If growing basil for the flowers, don’t cover; hand-picking and drowning beetles may be necessary.

Harvesting basil

Basil has a one-track mind: to sprout, grow, flower and set seed to reproduce. To utilize the basil plant for culinary use, the plant must not be allowed to flower ever during the growing season. Flowering changes the leaf flavor — and not for the better. To prevent flowering, begin pruning basil stems as early as the six to eight-leaf stage. For culinary use, the goal is to keep multiple plants only growing 10 or fewer sets of leaves.

Fresh leaves tossed into sauces, salads, caprese and pesto are never-miss favorites. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)

Basil will only grow so many leaves prior to flowering, and cutting flowers after they have formed does not stimulate new leaves; it encourages more flowering.

When harvesting, use clean scissors and cut directly above a set of two leaves. Let two to four leaves remain on the stem. In a short time (two to three weeks) the stem will grow out stimulating side growth, making the plant fuller and more leaf plentiful for further harvesting.

In addition to growing basil for culinary use, also consider growing other pretty varieties and allow them to flower for arrangements and your enjoyment. Holly’s Painted, Anise, Cinnamon, and lemon basils look wonderful in floral arrangements. Bees and other pollinators also love flowering basil.

Always harvest basil when you are going to use it immediately and avoid harvesting wet leaves.

Store cut basil in a jar of water in the refrigerator; it should last 7 to 10 days.

Using fresh basil

With so many basil types, flavors vary, too. Often the name of the basil indicates how to match the food being prepared, so experiment and have fun trying new dishes with your home-grown plants. Fresh leaves tossed into sauces, salads, caprese and pesto are never-miss favorites. Branch out this summer and prepare basil vinaigrette, basil butter and basil jelly. Recipes are easily found online.

Preserve: Much of basil’s flavor is lost when freezing, but if there is an abundance of basil near the end of the growing season you can try freezing a whole sheet of leaves, and then pack them between wax paper. This makes for easier leaf removal for recipes. Add frozen leaves directly to soups and sauces as needed.

Freeze chopped basil with olive oil for future pesto or flavoring for other dishes. Do not add the garlic, pine nuts or cheese until after thawing the chopped pesto and oil. Then also add some fresh parsley to improve the green color.

Drying basil is easy. Whole dried leaves taste better than crumbled leaves. Hang 3 to 5 stems bundled with twine or string in a ventilated room away from the sun. Or dry individual leaves on screens in a room, porch, shed or attic. Turn the leaves every few days. It will take 8-10 days to dry. When using an oven, set the temperature to 150 to 200 degrees for 3-5 minutes; if over-dried, the leaves will taste bitter and turn brown. Pack whole or crumbled leaves in clean jars with tight lids. Label and store; they last about a year.

Betty Cahill speaks and writes about gardening in the Rocky Mountain Region.

For the Love of Basil

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is one of the most familiar and easy to grow herbs for the garden.  Folklore says that when a man presents a woman with a sprig of basil, she will fall in love and never leave him. Give that a try or just grow it, there's still time to plant more annual basil seeds before the end of the season. They can easily be seeded in containers or directly in the ground.  You may need to use cover cloths or sheets for chilly nights later to extend their season.

Assortment of Basil Varieties in Containers

 

There are over 160 varieties of basil.  Pick your favorites (or what seeds are left on the garden shelf). The purple leaves of ‘Dark Opal’ or ‘Red Rubin’ are a wonderful contrast to the usual green varieties, they taste great and add a pop of color to green salads. 'Purple Ruffles' produce large leaves making them a pretty culinary garnish or a very attractive plant in containers or beds.

Try the large leaf varieties 'Italian Large Leaf' or 'Napoletano' to use in place of lettuce in sandwiches. They are large enough to use for wrapping pieces of chicken or fish before grilling (outstanding yum). 

'Napoletano' Large Leaf Basil

Scented basils add a unique flavor to dishes and can be used to make jams, jellies and vinegars and teas. They include lemon, lime, cinnamon, and licorice basil. 'Sweet Thai' is served as a condiment in Thai and Vietnamese dishes.  Basil leaves are used for seasoning many Italian dishes and are the main ingredient of pesto sauce.  Use the traditional 'Genovese' variety for authentic pesto flavor.  

'Red Rubin' Basil and Golden Sage

Basil prefers well-drained, amended soil. Keep the seedbed moist during germination, and watered throughout the growing season, the soil can dry a bit between waterings. Basil prefers full sun with late afternoon shade. Do not fertilize basil unless the soil is very depleted of nutrients, it will have better flavor if not fertilized.

Pinch off flower spikes as they form. This will maintain basil’s full flavor. Harvest leaves regularly during the growing season. Cut or pinch directly above a set of leaves so the plant becomes bushier. Start harvesting early, at the four leaf stage - younger leaves taste the best, especially when tossing into salad. 

Cut or pinch leaves directly above a set of leaves

Basil leaves can be preserved by freezing or drying. Remove leaves from stems, then rinse, then dry with a salad spinner. Toss leaves (not stems) in a food processor with oil. Chop well, add more oil if needed, the mixture shouldn't be dry but not too oily.  Freeze in small containers.  For quicker processing, rub olive oil on leaves first then place in ice cube trays or bags. Dry plants by hanging them upside down in a dry area. Crumble leaves and place in an airtight container to use all year. Dried leaves don't taste nearly as good as fresh or frozen, but they are better than dried store bought.

Although not university research-based, companion planting with basil is said to repel insects such as aphids, mites, tomato hornworms and asparagus beetles. Whether true or not, basil looks great inter-planted throughout the entire garden.  Basil is vulnerable to slugs, whitefly, red spider mites and Japanese beetles. Fusarium wilt, a fungus can attack plants leaving them yellow, stunted with discolored stems.  Rotate where basil is planted each year and look for resistant varieties. 

To end a stressful day, steep one-teaspoon dried leaves with one cup of boiling water.  It’s good for the digestive system but even better to boost your outlook!

   

Summer isn't Summer without Basil

My garden life wouldn't be complete without growing basil (Ocimum basilicum) every summer. I suspect you're in the same camp. Today I direct seeded two containers and will seed every few weeks all summer. It's one of the easiest herbs to germinate and grow to your heart's pesto desire.
 

'Red Rubin' Basil and Golden Sage

There are over 160 varieties of basil. Pick your favorites. The purple leaves of ‘Dark Opal’ or ‘Red Rubin’ are a wonderful contrast to the usual green varieties, they taste great and add a pop of color to green salads. 'Purple Ruffles' produce large leaves making them a pretty culinary garnish or a very attractive plant in containers or beds.

Try the large leaf varieties 'Italian Large Leaf' or 'Napoletano' and use in place of lettuce in sandwiches. They are large enough to use as chicken or fish wraps.
 

'Napoletano' Large Leaf Basil

Scented basils add a unique flavor to dishes and can be used to make jams, jellies and vinegars and teas. They include lemon, lime, cinnamon, and licorice basil. 'Sweet Thai' is served in Thai and Vietnamese dishes. Basil leaves are used for seasoning Italian dishes and are the main ingredient of pesto sauce. Use the traditional 'Genovese' variety for authentic pesto flavor.  

Basil prefers well-drained, amended soil. Use new potting soil for containers (see my video below, or click HERE if it doesn't open). Keep the seedbed moist during germination, and watered throughout the growing season, the soil can dry a bit between waterings. Basil prefers full sun with late afternoon shade. For the best flavor avoid over fertilizing basil unless the soil is very depleted of nutrients. 

Pinch off flower spikes as they form. This will maintain basil’s full flavor. Harvest leaves regularly during the growing season. Cut or pinch directly above a set of leaves so the plant becomes more bushy. Start harvesting early, at the four leaf stage - younger leaves taste the best, especially when tossing into salad.  

'Lettuce Leaf' basil in Smart Pots®

Although not university research-tested, companion planting with basil is said to repel insects such as aphids, mites, tomato hornworms and asparagus beetles. Whether true or not, basil looks great inter-planted throughout the entire garden. Basil is vulnerable to slugs, whitefly, spider mites and Japanese beetles. Fusarium wilt, a fungus can attack plants leaving them yellow, stunted with discolored stems. Rotate where basil is planted each year and look for resistant varieties if you've had disease issues. My plants came down with downy mildew a few summers ago so I'm seeding in Smart Pots®. I cover the plants with inexpensive veil from the fabric store to prevent Japanese beetle damage.

Cut or pinch leaves directly above a set of leaves

Basil leaves can be preserved by freezing or drying. Remove leaves from stems, then rinse, then dry with a salad spinner. Toss leaves (not stems) in a food processor with oil. Chop well, add more oil if needed, the mixture shouldn't be dry but not too oily. Freeze in small containers. For quicker processing, rub olive oil on leaves first then place in ice cube trays or bags. Dry plants by hanging them upside down in a dry area. Crumble leaves and place in an airtight container to use all year. Dried leaves don't taste nearly as good as fresh or frozen, but they are better than store purchased dried.

Internet Photo from theseamanmom.com

To end a stressful day steep one teaspoon of dried basil leaves with a cup of boiling water. Cool and add ice if you prefer chilled. It's goods for the digestive system, but even better for your outlook even if your outlook doesn't need improving!

Smart Pots Deliver!

Finding quality and tasty homegrown fruits and vegetables this time of the summer is as easy as switching your cell phone to mute. And you'll want silence and no interruptions when savoring fresh green beans off the vine or handfuls of cherry tomatoes when passing by a bountiful plant. Now, right now in early August IS the reason we gardeners, plan, wait, amend, test, plant, fuss, cover and then rejoice!  If you don't grow your own vegetables, no problem.

Every local grocery store, farmer's market, Farmshares/CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) and some street intersections are selling stuff that tastes great. What's on your plate?  How are you plants faring so far this summer?  Here's my report.

I'm in my fifth season of using Smart Pots to grow vegetables. This year I'm using them to grow tomatoes, basil and potatoes. If you don't know about smart pots then you're missing out on one of the easiest, plant and root friendly containers on the market. These porous, award winning, reusable, fabric pots (available in several sizes and three colors) practically ensure garden growing success for any green and non-green thumbed person. As well stated by one of their retailers, smart pots are the cotton shirt of the container world. Plants growing in smart pots don't get as hot - they breathe, allowing air to flow all around the container.  The plant feels comfortable, just like we feel when wearing a cotton shirt.  Roots subsequently grow larger and don't get caught up growing in circles like they do in other hard material containers. Once a root in a smart pot hits the side of the fabric, the root forms new roots that will grow up, down or side-to-side in a process known as root pruning. No circling, just more root growth! 

Seasoned gardeners can try new plants and tuck smart pots anywhere in the landscape. New gardeners or small space gardeners will love that they can be used during the growing season and easily emptied and stored over the winter. To top off their ease of use, over watering is practically impossible with the porous nature of the container. Just use a tray or tarp underneath so soil won't seep out onto concrete or wood surfaces. If used on bare ground, no need to use anything under the smart pot.

Hands down our "Big Boy" tomato growing in the #20 smart pot is well developed, healthy (despite some hail damaged leaves) and full of nice green fruit, just minutes away from turning red.  These tomatoes seem happy, so the person growing them is happy (me).

I direct seed lots of basil each summer and consider it one of nature's best plants, an A+. Unfortunately my in-ground basil plants contracted downy mildew (as diagnosed by the Jefferson County Plant Diagnostic Clinic) a couple of years ago. Downy mildew is not exactly a fungus like powdery mildew, it's more of a nasty pathogen closely related to water molds.  It can be reintroduced to a garden by infected seeds, transplants or spores that happen to blow in. I'm hoping to out smart this pathogen by using smart pots to grow basil plants quickly for day to day use. I'm also harvesting often and freezing or "putting up" small batches of leaves packed in olive oil for use all winter. 

Here's my "out smart downy mildew" procedure:

I heavily direct seeded basil in two small raised bed smart pots. In a matter of days - fourteen or so, I was harvesting basil micro-greens that tasted out of this world delish. And as often happens with basil that is left to grow too long between harvesting, the leaves can taste a bit soapy (at least to me and one of my garden friends, and former caterer). NO soap or bitterness at all in the micro greens, plus by harvesting leaves in the 6-leaf stage, there's less chance for poor taste or succumbing to downy mildew (I hope). One other tip, I covered them with the lightest weight floating row cover when the first Japanese beetles showed up in June. The plants don't mind the cover a bit, it's allows 85% light transmission and the plants just keep growing as usual. In the next few days I'll harvest all the plants and start the process over, well before the chance of frost.

 

Grow your own Grocery Greens

I've written a couple of blogs about growing micro-greens indoors. It's a rewarding seeding experience for the run up to the outdoor planting season. 

The topic deserves a repeat, mainly because if I can do this successfully, then anyone can. This winter I've expanded the palette with lettuce seeds. I can't believe it took so long to try growing lettuce under lights, it's as easy as opening a seed packet.

First, the what-how-where -

Micro-greens are the first teeny, tiny seedlings of plants that are usually seeded outside and harvested when fully grown. They include lettuce, broccoli, basil, sunflowers, peas and seed mixes of cress, chard, mustard and many more. 

You can purchase specific micro-green labeled seeds from garden centers and online or use left over seeds from your cache. One caution - parsnip seeds used for micro-greens are poisonous so use them only for outside seeding and grow until they mature.

The taste of these little micro guys is so delish and fresh. In the blink of an eye, okay, mere days - they are ready for eating.

Use them on soup, pasta, sandwiches, eggs, vegetable and main dishes. Tossing them on your morning oatmeal might be a stretch, but not in the juicer.

The seeding how to takes about ten minutes, maybe less. 

• Clean and rinse an empty plastic lettuce container (or any low container), poke some holes in the bottom if there aren't any drainage areas. 
• My new go to for a mass of micro greens is to grow them in recyclable large aluminum pans you buy at holidays when you need more pans or when you want to make a lasagna for a potluck or sick friend and leave it there.
• Aluminum pans are inexpensive, cheaper than seed trays in most cases. Just use a Phillip's head screw driver or nail to poke holes in the bottom. Bonus, they are sold with their own plastic cover which works great as a dome over the tray until the seeds are up and moved under grow lights. 
  
• Fill 3/4s with moistened sterile seed starting or a very light weight potting soil (not outside garden soil).  
• Heavily sprinkle micro-green seeds or left over seeds over the soil, then add a very light layer of soil over the seeds. 
• Water the seeded area well using a sprinkler type head instead of a regular pour type nozzle which can move the seeds and soil around too much.     
                    
  
  

 

Place the tray with the plastic container over the pan near or under grow lights, the seeds will emerge either way. 

• Use a heat seed mat if you wish, they will hasten seed emergence. Once the seeds are up (usually in 2-4 days), promptly remove the plastic cover and place near a very sunny window or under grow lights. 
• Water when the soil looks slightly dry, usually every day for me - they can dry out quickly, keep any eye on them. 
• In about seven to ten days you'll be harvesting fresh little micro-bursts of whatever seed you planted. 
• To harvest, just cut a handful of greens right above the soil line, you don't even need to rinse them unless some soil is holding on.
• I continue harvesting the batch until they are pretty spent (you'll know), the lettuce will provide several harvests and grow back quickly.
  

Three plastic containers of basil micro-greens staggered seeding. I used the plastic lid from an old seed tray for the larger basil seeding, works great too.

Close up of the basil micro greens and lettuce to the right

Time to cut the taller lettuce ... with tonight's lasagna!
 

Plan on seeding several batches and stagger them over the winter. Once harvested you can re-use the soil a few times (I do), unless gnats appear or disease is suspected. BTW, I continue growing basil as micro-greens outdoors in Smart Pot® containers, I seed in late May or June when temps are much warmer since basil doesn't like cold days and nights.

Smart Pots Grow Smart Plants

I'm in my sixth season of using Smart Pots to grow vegetables. Just like last summer I'm using them to grow tomatoes, basil and potatoes. The only difference this year is that the plants are growing better, in a way, smarter - they are very healthy, disease free and producing. I credit two reasons for this - using Smart Pot containers and the consistent, sunny and mostly hail-free weather conditions.

Hard to see but six Smart Pots growing potatoes

If you are unfamiliar with Smart Pots then you're missing out on one of the easiest, plant and root growing friendly containers on the market. These felt-like, reusable, lightweight containers ensure garden growing success for anyone. Smart pots have been described as the cotton shirt of the container world. Why? Plants growing in porous Smart Pots don't get as hot - they breathe, allowing air to flow through the container and around the plant. The plant feels comfortable, just like we feel when wearing a cotton shirt. 

Roots in Smart Pots subsequently grow larger and don't end up up growing in circles like they do in other hard material containers. Once a root in a Smart Pot reaches the side of the fabric, the root forms new roots that will grow up, down or side-to-side in a process known as air root pruning. No root girdling, just lots more healthy, happy, fibrous root growth!
  

'New Big Dwarf' Organic Tomato

They are very affordably priced and come in several sizes and three colors. I'm using black #15s for potatoes, #20s for tomatoes and big bag bed mini for basil.

Try new plant varieties or tuck Smart Pots anywhere in the landscape where there's good sun and easy access to water. Gardeners appreciate that they can be used during the growing season and easily emptied, folded and stored over the winter. Try the wall flower saddle planter over railings, gates or fences. The sidewall opening on the transplanters come in very handy for potting up plants as they grow larger.

Fill them with quality sterile potting soil at the beginning of each gardening season and plant or seed just as you would in any other container. Over watering is practically impossible with the porous nature of the container. Smart Pots will provide many seasons of use before needing to be replaced.

Use a tray or tarp underneath so soil won't seep out onto concrete or wood surfaces. If used on bare ground, no need to use anything under the Smart Pot. They are growing on the small rock mulch near my raised beds. I water daily on hot days and fertilize plants twice a month.

Lettuce Leaf Basil in Mini Raised Bed - Veil for Insect Protection

My new technique to grow basil is to heavily over seed a mini raised bed, then harvest as micro basil greens or allow them to grow to two sets of leaves. In a few short weeks there are plenty of greens to use fresh in salads or pesto with plenty left over to process in oil for freezing.

There's still time to seed more basil, and while you're at it, get going on the third or fall season of gardening with your favorite leafy greens.