I’m not referring to our four-legged furry friends after their morning
patrol of the yard.
“Boxelder bugs are a little creepy and seem to appear out of nowhere” says
Alison O’Connor, Colorado State University Extension Specialist Horticulture in
Larimer County, “they like to wander into living rooms to get warm when fall
weather starts to cool. They just want to survive through the winter.” The good
news is that “they don’t bite, they are just a nuisance.”
Let’s look at boxelder bugs (Boisea trivittata) up close, their
host trees and some recommended control methods that may help get you through
their season of annoying behavior.
What are Boxelder Bugs
It is easy to collectively call any insect a bug, but technically there
are bugs that are called true bugs. One big distinction of true bugs to other
insects is their specialized mouth part for eating. True bugs, like boxelder
bugs have a long beak shaped
like a needle. This is technically called a proboscis, which acts like a straw allowing
them to pierce, then suck juices out of plants and animals (you’re reading and
thinking, great … just in time for Halloween).
Even though many true bugs including boxelder bugs are considered
pests, there are a third of true bugs that are superheroes in our landscapes as
they prey on other pest insects. Other beneficial bugs include damsel bugs, bigeyed bugsand assassin bugs.
Boxelder bugs can be found throughout the western states. Their life
span is about one year. They are oval shaped, about ½ inch long, black brownish
in color with red stripes on their thorax (central portion of the body) and
wing margins. Their body is also bright red. Boxelder bugs lay rusty colored
eggs on female boxelder trees (Acer negundo) in spring and again in late summer.
The small nymphs hatch from the eggs in about two weeks; they are also bright
red in color.
Nymphs and adults feed on leaves and soft seeds of female boxelder
trees, (Acer negundo) and sometimes ash trees (Fraxinus) and maples (Acer spp).
Feeding happens all summer, and surprisingly they mostly do not do great damage
to their host trees. If bug numbers are excessively high tree leaves can curl
and prematurely drop.
As cooler fall weather approaches boxelder bugs begin to aggregate in
warm areas like south and west facing buildings, houses, the base of their host
tree, firewood piles, landscape mulch and rock walls. A noticeable odor can
occur when groups of boxelder bugs gather and if and when they are crushed.
Photo by Nancy Downs, Colorado Master Gardener, Denver County
Not all boxelder trees attract the bug. One popular male boxelder tree
cultivar is called ‘Sensation’ and does not produce seeds, so it is not attractive
to boxelder bugs. Plus its fall leaf color is an attractive red.
Boxelder Tree Identification
Photo by Nancy Downs, Colorado Master Gardener, Denver County
Box elder trees are native to Colorado and many other states. They are
fast growers, rounded to irregular shaped, growing up to fifty feet tall. They
are tolerant of heat, drought, cold, and wet conditions, they can certainly
take tough CO growing conditions.
Boxelder trees are prolific in the metro area, especially older
neighborhoods. Female trees produce small green-yellow flowers in spring. The
best way to identify them is to examine their leaves and seeds on female trees.
Notice the leaf arrangement. Boxelder tree leaves are compound in structure,
meaning there are three to seven leaflets attached to the mid-vein, plus the
leaves are opposite each other along the branches. The fruit, called winged
nutlets, ripen in August to September and shed through the fall and winter
which often lead to more boxelder trees.
Photo by Nancy Downs, Colorado Master Gardener, Denver County
Boxelder Bug Controls
The first and most obvious control the bugs is to keep them out of
homes and buildings by making sure outside cracks around windows, doors,
crevices and any possible openings are repaired, sealed and caulked if needed.
If they get inside they are easy to remove and toss. I use a tissue to grab and
crush them. A mild soapy water spray can be used on them too which makes for an
easy clean up.
Natural enemies of boxelder bugs are not dependable. Rodents may eat a
few but the red coloration and taste when crushed make them a last resort, same
for birds.
“Use of chemical sprays in homes is risky and not recommended,” says
Alison O’Connor at CSU. Boxelder bugs will not breed inside homes or cause
damage other than possibly leaving a little stain on surfaces. Just remove them
when seen. Also, “boxelder trees do not require spray controls either since
tree damage from bug eating is mostly minimal.”
I notice that groups of boxelder bugs congregate in a sunny mulch area
on the southwest side of our yard so I hose down the mulch every few days and
drown them. Also be sure to clean up leaves and yard debris around homes to
prevent them from nesting through the winter.
Garden
Friend - I thought you
might like to read my recent garden article that ran in The Denver Post on preserving the garden harvest. The article is co-authored with my editor Barbara Ellis. A fun project!
One
of my favorite childhood memories is the attention I got from my mom
when I wasn’t feeling well. She’d keep me home from school and feed me
comfort food. This included her chicken soup and buttered toast,
followed by preserved peaches. That fruit went down so smoothly that any
ache was immediately soothed, and all but guaranteed a speedy recovery.
Jars of Palisade peaches, fresh out of the canner. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
Memories
of her canning efforts are etched on the front burner of my brain: her
stern scooting of me and my older sister out of the kitchen so we
weren’t harmed by hot jars and sticky stuff. She stored the canned goods
on a long, rough-hewn shelf in the basement next to assorted garden
tools and seed-starting containers. I still dream about the perfectly
aligned, incandescent jars of canned peaches, tomatoes, pickles and, in
some years, sweet cherries from the Flathead Valley in northwest
Montana. — Betty Cahill
A preserving primer
Preserving
home-grown food never goes out of style. There’s “renewed interest in
preserving since so many people took up gardening in 2020,” according to
Laura Griffin, county extension specialist for Colorado State
University in Pueblo. Plus, with the closeness of grocery stores,
farmers markets and seasonal farm stands, you don’t have to travel far
to find home-grown produce to preserve without the effort of growing it
yourself. The hardest decision to make is what vegetable and fruit you
wish to preserve and the best method within your time and budget to
preserve them.
Griffin’s advice is to “follow tested recipes
explicitly for the highest quality and safe outcome, and if you have any
questions to reach out to a Colorado State University Extension Office
to speak with a food science and human nutrition extension agent for
answers.” (Check out CSU’s website Preserve Smart for methods to preserve many kinds of food.)
Another
great resource is Ball Corp., a longtime go-to for food preservation
information. Staffers there recommend using Ball’s canning books
published in 2016 and beyond for the newest and latest safety and
home-preservation methods and recipes, or go online for up-to-date
information.
The best results in preserving come when fruits,
herbs and vegetables are harvested at their peak. Toss or compost any
that are damaged, bruised or over- or under-ripe. If the fruit or
vegetable doesn’t taste good after harvest, the flavor won’t improve
after the preservation process.
Preservation methods
Besides canning (water bath and
pressure), common ways to preserve food include freezing, fermenting,
drying, pickling and making them into jam or jelly.
Freezing
vegetables is an easy preservation method. The general rule is to
blanch them first, which means to immerse washed vegetables briefly in
boiling water. Blanching helps prevent loss of color, texture and
flavor. Times vary per vegetable. Once blanched, plunge them into cold
water to immediately stop the blanching process, drain and place in
labeled freezer bags.
Vegetables that can be blanched and frozen include beans
(green, snap, wax, lima, butter, pinto), cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels
sprouts, peas, carrots, kohlrabi, rhubarb, summer squash, sweet corn,
tomatoes and peppers. Be sure to fully cook beets, pumpkins, winter
squash and sweet potatoes before freezing.
When I don’t have time
to use the water bath canning method for my home-grown tomatoes, I
blanch and freeze them in heavy-duty, gallon-sized plastic bags.
For
fresh fruits: Wash, stem, dry and freeze on cookie sheets first, then
store in freezer bags. Try blueberries, blackberries, huckleberries,
elderberries, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, currants and
rhubarb.
Drying or dehydrating removes moisture
from food so bacteria, yeast and mold won’t grow. Food dehydration
equipment and ovens are most often used. The short list of foods that
dry well include apples, peaches, pears, tomatoes, grapes, plums and
herbs.
Fermentation is where fruits or vegetables
are cured in salt or brine for a week or longer to help the food
produce lactic acid, which preserves the food and serves as a probiotic.
Canning. Water
bath canners are made of either aluminum or porcelain-covered steel and
are used directly on stove-top burners. The newest canners on the
market are free-standing, electric stainless steel with built-in heat
sensors. Either works well, so choose which canner suits you.
An electric water bath for canning. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
The
preserving process of water-bath canning is to force air out of the jar
and create an environment to keep out microorganisms that cause food
spoilage. It is recommended for high-acid foods including tomatoes,
pickles, sauerkraut, peaches, pears, apricots, plums, lemons,
gooseberries and blackberries.
New canning research indicates some
foods are less acidic so additional acidic ingredients should be added
(lemon juice or white vinegar; see individual recipes). Laura Griffin
points out that “white-flesh peaches, because of their lower acid level
compared to yellow-flesh peaches, should be frozen for safe preservation
instead of water bath canned.”
Pressure canning uses a heavy
metal kettle with a lockable lid. The canners are used to process
low-acid foods to destroy harmful bacterial spores that are present.
Low-acid foods include okra, carrots, beets, turnips, green beans,
asparagus, lima beans, peas, corn, meat and fish. Weighted gauge and
dial gauge pressure canners are the only pressure canning equipment
recommended by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Dial gauge pressure
canners need to be tested for accuracy every year. (Contact your local
Colorado county extension office for this service.)
Pickling.
Home canning to make pickled foods has been a traditional way to
preserve food for thousands of years. Pickling is a broad term for many
types of fruits, vegetables and meat that are preserved by immersing
them in a solution made of water, vinegar, salt and spices. This
pickling brine solution creates an acidic environment that prevents the
growth of bacteria, which makes the food stay fresh and tasty for a
longer time. Commonly pickled foods include cucumbers, peppers, green
beans, onions, eggs, okra and radish. Watermelon, peaches, nectarines,
chutneys and relishes can also be pickled.
Pickling cucumbers
using a hot-water canner is good to try when preserving for the first
time. My nephew Joe, who lives in Montana, was interested in pickling
his own cucumbers after trying his grandmother’s pickles. “Nothing
compares to home-grown flavor, and it is not too complicated,” he said.
Recipes for the brine can vary, but he always adds fresh dill, cloves,
white onion and pepper corns. (See one recipe from Ball below.)
Supplies to pickle garden cucumbers. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
Grow
your own pickling cucumbers, which have a thin skin so the brine is
better absorbed. Or find a farm stand or farmer’s market with pickling
cukes, which should be refrigerated when purchased to keep them fresh
until processed. Popular pickler varieties are Excelsior, Bush, Calypso
and H-19 Little Leaf.
Ears of Colorado’s famed “Olathe Sweet” sweet corn. (Bill St. John, Special to The Denver Post)
In
the past, as I planned my Thanksgiving menu, I’ve often lamented not
freezing any of that Olathe sweet corn from the summer for my favorite
corn pudding recipe.
But this year, I’m ready. Using the
guidelines from “Keeping the Harvest,” by Nancy Chioffi and Gretchen
Mead (Storey Books), I shucked and blanched fresh Olathe corn ears for
11 minutes in boiling water, then cooled them immediately in cold water.
After draining well, I cut the kernels from the ears, packed them into
plastic bags, then labeled and froze them. Come on, November. — Barbara Ellis
Serves 12. Source: Southern Living magazine.
Ingredients
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons kosher salt
6 large eggs
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup salted butter, melted and cooled
2 tablespoons canola oil
6 cups fresh corn kernels (from 8 ears, see note)
1/2 cup chopped sweet onion
2 tablespoons (or less) fresh thyme, divided
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Stir together flour, sugar, baking
powder and salt in a small bowl until blended. Whisk together eggs,
cream and melted butter in a medium bowl until blended.
Heat canola oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add corn
and onion, and cook, stirring often, until onion is softened, about 5
minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon thyme.
Remove from heat and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Stir flour
mixture and corn mixture into egg mixture. Spoon into a 13-by-9 (3
quart) baking dish, and bake in preheated oven until set and golden
brown, about 40 minutes or more.
Let stand 5 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon (or less) thyme.
Note: You can use kernels that you froze from fresh ears during the
summer, frozen shoepeg corn from the freezer aisle, or petite white
canned corn (but use higher quality if that’s the only option). This can
be made ahead. Bake as directed, let cool, and then cover and chill up
to two days. Reheat covered with foil.
Hays House Peach Pie
Amy Brothers, The Denver Post
Hays
House Peach Pie from Hays House restaurant in Council Grove, Kan., on
August 18, 2016 in Denver, Colorado. Palisade peaches from Colorado’s
Western Slope are typically in season from late July through September.
This
is my go-to summer pie, one that my book club pals and friends clamor
for each August, when peaches start to come in from Palisade. I’ve also
made it in the winter, using peaches that I’ve canned. The color isn’t
as vibrant, but it’s still amazing. (We’ve run this recipe before, but
it’s worth telling you about it again. It’s that good.) Serve with fresh whipped cream or Cool Whip. — Barbara Ellis
Ingredients
For the crust:
1 cup flour
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/2 cup butter, melted
For the filling:
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup dry peach gelatin
1/4 cup cornstarch
1 cup liquid (peach juice plus water)
1 or 2 drops almond flavoring, if desired
7 or 8 peaches
Directions
Mix dry ingredients together. Add melted butter.
Press into 9-inch pie plate and up sides, but not onto rim.
Bake crust 15-17 minutes at 350 until toasty brown. Remove and cool.
Peel and slice the peaches.
In a medium saucepan, mix sugar, gelatin and cornstarch. Add the liquid (peach juice and water). Boil 3-5 minutes.
Mix the liquid with sliced peaches and put into pie shell. Chill.
Top with whipped cream.
Kosher Dill Pickle Spears
Home-grown pickles in brine, waiting to be sealed and canned. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
When
canning pickles, the whole process of sterilizing the jars, cleaning
the two-piece caps, cutting the cucumbers, heating the pickle mix and
water bath canner took less than two hours. Loading the cucumbers and
the liquid into the jars took a few minutes more. Be sure to use a
clean, damp paper towel to wipe off any liquid from the jar rim and
threads before capping. Check the lids the next day for a good seal (the
center of the lid won’t flex at all). If they are not properly sealed,
eat the pickles right away, and refrigerate spears not eaten and use
within a few days. There are many brining spice mix recipes out there;
my nephew Joe always uses fresh dill, cloves, white onion and
peppercorns. — Betty Cahill
This recipe is for “a classic pickle with big flavor and plenty of crunch,” according to Ball. Source: Ball Mason Jars. Yield: about 4 pint jars.
Ingredients
2½ pounds 3- to 4-inch pickling cucumbers
2½ cups water
2 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup pickling salt
Ball Pickle Crisp (available at most supermarkets and WalMart)
4 cloves garlic
4 small bay leaves
12 dill sprigs
2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
4 small hot peppers (optional)
Directions
Prepare boiling water canner. Heat jars in simmering water until
ready to use, but do not boil. Wash lids in warm soapy water and set
aside with bands.
Wash
cucumbers and hot peppers in cold water. Slice 1/16 of an inch off the
blossom end of each cucumber; trim stem ends so cucumbers measure about 3
inches. Cut cucumbers into quarters lengthwise.
Combine water, vinegar, sugar and salt in a small stainless saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower heat to simmer.
Place
1 garlic clove, 3 dill sprigs, ½ teaspoon mustard seed, 1 bay leaf, 1
red pepper, and Ball Pickle Crisp (if desired) into a hot jar. Pack
cucumber spears into jar, leaving a ½ inch headspace. Trim any cucumbers
that are too tall.
Ladle
hot brine into a hot jar leaving a ½ inch headspace. Remove air
bubbles. Wipe jar rim. Center lid on jar and apply band, adjust to
fingertip tight. Place jar in boiling-water canner. Repeat until all
jars are filled.
Water
must cover jars by 1 inch. Adjust heat to medium-high, cover canner,
and bring water to a rolling boil. Process pint jars 15 minutes,
adjusting for altitude. Turn off heat and remove cover. Let jars cool 5
minutes. Remove jars from canner; do not retighten bands if loose. Cool
12-24 hours. Check lids for seal, they should not flex when center is
pressed.
Tips:
Pickling cucumbers are small, crisp, unwaxed, and needn’t be peeled.
Wide-mouth jars aren’t essential for pickles, but they do make for
easier packing.
Home-grown blackberries can be frozen and used in pies or made into jam. (Getty Images)
Blackberry Pie
I’ve
been growing blackberries for years. Even though the yield isn’t what
it used to be, I still manage to freeze a couple of quart bags of
berries each summer to use in this pie (or for blackberry jam; see
recipe at kraftheinz.com). I got this pie recipe from neighbor Joyce,
who loved it so much that it became part of the cookbook compiled by her
large Iowa family. You can use your own crust recipe, but this one from
Betty Crocker is the bomb. — Barbara Ellis
Ingredients
For the crust:
2 2/3 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 stick butter-flavored Crisco shortening
7-8 tablespoons cold water
For the filling:
4 cups blackberries (frozen OK)
3/4 cups sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons cornstarch (or more if thawed berries are too watery)
3 pats butter
Vanilla or berry ice cream for serving (optional)
Directions
Preheat oven to 425.
Defrost 4 cups frozen berries in the microwave, 50% power for 4-6 minutes (adjust for your microwave).
In a medium bowl, mix sugar, cinnamon and cornstarch. Add berries, partially frozen. Set aside.
Make the crust: Mix flour and salt, then cut in Crisco. Add cold
water 2 tablespoons at a time. Roll out bottom crust into 9-inch pie
plate. Add berries and top with pats of butter. Roll out top crust,
cover and seal edges. Sprinkle with sugar and bake for 30 minutes. Cover
crust with foil to prevent burning and bake for 10 more minutes.
Grape Jelly
Concord grapes hanging from vines. Juice them and make grape jelly that lasts all year long. (Getty Images)
Concord
grape vines meander along the south side of my Congress Park home. LOTS
of grape vines. Even after the squirrels have had their way with them,
there are still enough berries left to make several batches of grape
jelly.
I use a stovetop juice steamer to get the liquid out of
those sweet little gems. Many grape jelly recipes call for adding water
when using store-bought grape juice, but with fresh grapes it’s not
necessary. We’re using the traditional water bath canning procedure
here. (Be careful not to burn yourself with that scalding jelly.)
After
it sets, store the jars in a cool place. Best if used within a year. Or
fancy up a few of the little darlin’s and put ’em in a cute basket.
Voila! Christmas gifts for the neighbors. — Barbara Ellis
Makes about 8 half-pint jars. Source: Sure-Jell and food.com. (Find lots of recipes for fruit jams and jellies using Sure-Jell at kraftheinz.com.)
Ingredients
5 cups grape juice (from about 3 1/2 pounds of ripe Concord grapes)
1 (1 3/4 ounce) box of Sure-Jell pectin
1/2 teaspoon butter or margarine
7 cups sugar, measured and set aside
Directions
Make the grape juice using clean washed grapes (pick out leaves and
stems before juicing). If not using a juice steamer, slip skins from 3
1/2 pounds of grapes. Mix grape pulp and 1 cup cup water in saucepan.
Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer 5 minutes. Press
through sieve to remove seeds.
In large pan, bring 5 cups of grape juice, fruit pectin and butter
or margarine (to reduce foaming) to a full rolling boil for 1 minute,
stirring constantly.
Stir in sugar all at once, and bring back to a full rolling boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
Remove from heat. Skim off foam with metal spoon.
Ladle
immediately into prepared jars, filling to within 1/4 inch of tops.
Wipe jar rims and threads. Cover with two-piece lids. Screw bands
tightly. Place jars on elevated rack in canner. Lower rack into canner.
(Water must cover jars by 1 to 2 inches. Add boiling water, if
necessary.) Cover; bring water to gentle boil. Process 10 minuites or
longer. Remove jars and place upright on towel to cool completely.
After jars cool, check seals by pressing middles of lids with finger.
(If lids spring back, lids are not sealed and refrigeration is
necessary.)
Label and store in a cool place for up to 18 months.
An
endless summer season in Colorado means that fall outdoor gardening
continues. Until the rake is needed, here are three unique and thrifty
suggestions that might come in handy.
Begin new plant starts
1. Layering
plants is the term for propagating existing, growing plants in the
landscape or in your house. Fall is a good time to layer outdoor plants,
so they’ll grow into new plants over the winter months. This method can
also be started in the spring.
Layering can be done on different
vines and shrubs with flexible branches like spirea, forsythia and fruit
vines. For house plants, try layering with croton, dracaena, schefflera
and more. Legally, this should only be done on plants that are not
patented, such as old-time varieties that have been in the public domain
for many years.
There are different ways to layer plants. For
vines such as clematis, try easy trench layering in which individual
vines are carefully laid down in a two-inch deep furrow to grow new
plants. The vine (or vines if doing two or more in different directions)
can be as long as you need for the space starting at eight or so
inches. Carefully remove the leaves, lay down the leafless vine and
cover the trench with soil and mulch, then water the area well.
Next
spring, new plants should take root from where the leaves were removed
along the vines that were trench layered in the fall.
Another
similar method to grow a new vine is to bury a small nursery container
up to the ground level with soil, and then instead of trenching, place
the vine over the container. Be sure a removed leaf node is over the
container. Cover with soil and mulch as described above. Next spring,
dig up the container. The original attached vine segment can easily be
cut away if needed. The new clematis start can be planted elsewhere in
the garden or shared with a friend.
Keep track of newly planted bulbs
2. Wine corks, of all things
can have another use outdoors. Simply poke the cork onto the end of
knitting needles which are inexpensive and easy to find at garage sales
if more are needed. Use a permanent marker on the cork and place where
newly planted fall bulbs are located for easy location and
identification next spring.
Get your poinsettia back in Christmas form
3.
If you kept a poinsettia from last year, early October is the time to
coax it back to blooming for the holidays. This is activity requires
devoted daily attention.
Bring the plant indoors if it was outside over the summer.
Give it a spray with insecticidal soap if insects are suspected, but
throw it out if if is overly infected or diseased.
The plant must
be placed in absolute darkness for fourteen hours a night for two
continuous months. Set your alarm on your phone or another device. There
cannot be nearby light, reflections, or streetlights; the plant
requires complete blackness. Forgetting for one night or more can make
the difference between success and failure.
Some people use a
never-opened closet during this time or a box to cover the plant
entirely. A black plastic bag works too. Poke narrow sticks in the soil
to hold up the plastic to prevent crushing the leaves. At 6 p.m., or the
time that works best for you, place the plant in that dark location and
then return the plant to daylight at 8 a.m. (or 14 hours later). The
plant should be kept evenly moist and fertilized every couple of weeks.
By
mid-November, the bracts, which are the modified leaves of the plant
that we view as flowers, should start to show color. Do not stop the
schedule of dark and light — continue until early December when the
bracts should be enlarged and fully colored. At this stage, pat yourself
on the back and place your beauty in a sunny area of the house to
enjoy. Try to maintain cooler temperatures for the best bloom and water
regularly.
Did
you save your poinsettia from last winter? Now is the time to start
coaxing it back to blooming so bracts, or flowers, will be present at
Christmastime. (Betty Cahill / Special to the Denver Post)
It cannot be said often enough that to grow a healthy lawn, it is
all about providing consistent, appropriate care that can help in
preventing problems. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
This
year has seen an uptick in turf-related projects along the Front Range
and elsewhere in Colorado. From putting in native and water-thrifty
plants or replacing lawn turf with more drought-tolerant grass varieties
or replacing the lawn with clover, there are options to consider,
depending on the desired outcome.
For
dead lawn areas due to pet or pest damage, watering issues or fungus,
overseeding with a similar and more drought-tolerant grass seed is the
least expensive and less strenuous way to bring a positive lawn result.
(Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
Conserving
water and attracting pollinators seem to be the top reasons for these
projects. Decades ago, there were just a few Colorado gardeners and
landscape professionals who were espousing using plants and practices
more suited to our dry, sun-drenched landscapes — techniques that
differed from the popular norm of wall-to-wall turf grass. We thank them
for their sagacity, because they stayed the course and proved that more
ecologically oriented landscapes can be both resourceful and beautiful
places where we want to spend time.
Does this mean the backyard
lawns that host fun with kids and dogs should go away? Not at all. Grass
lawns remain a viable and practical mass groundcover solution for many
homeowners and certainly for our valued public city parks, stadiums and
other areas. Nothing wrong with having both: a manageable lawn space to
walk on while having your morning coffee plus natural places in the
landscape where there is close viewing of colorful and beneficial insect
and bird activity as they dart and dine on plants that make us happy.
Now
that fall has officially arrived after a very hot, dry summer, it is
easy to see that the lawn might need some TLC and attention before cold
weather arrives and stays.
To better understand your lawn type, whether you have a cool or warm season lawn, go to bit.ly/4gJ4o28 to read about lawn basics. I also covered full lawn renovation at bit.ly/3ZZMXo7. Clover lawns will be covered at a future date.
It
cannot be said often enough that to grow a healthy lawn, it is all
about providing consistent, appropriate care that can help in preventing
problems. Here are three cool-season fall lawn-care tips that will
improve the lawn in the short and long term.
Head to your local independent garden center and pick up seeds that
match your sunlight and growing conditions. (Betty Cahill, Special to
The Denver Post)
1. For dead lawn areas due to pet or pest damage, watering issues or
fungus, overseeding with a similar and more drought-tolerant grass seed
is the least expensive and less strenuous way to bring a positive lawn
result. Seeding can thicken up older existing lawns that may be thinned
out from summer activity and too much shade.
Get going now because
grass seed can take several days to a week or more to germinate and
begin growing. Head to your local independent garden center and pick up
seeds that match your sunlight and growing conditions.
Aerating the lawn and bare areas first with a lawn service
or your own pitchfork or hand aerator allows grass seeds to go directly
into the root areas for better germination. Flag sprinkler heads so they
won’t be damaged by machinery.
Lawn aeration is one of the most
beneficial fall tasks that result in improved grass root growth and
reduction in thatch, the layer of decomposing roots and stems that leads
to less water penetration and shallow grass rooting.
Water the
lawn well a day or two prior to aerating. Poke many holes in the area so
lots of seeds go into lots of holes. Fertilizing the lawn after seeding
is helpful to turf health, along with top dressing the seeded area and
entire lawn with a half-inch layer of compost, not too thick. Be sure to
water the seeded, fertilized and top-dressed areas well and keep the
seeds moist with daily watering.
Dried
leaves are considered garden treasures by those in the know. Try mowing
them into the lawn. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
Continue
regular watering of existing lawns, trees, shrubs and plants until at
least mid-October instead of stopping in September. As temperatures fall
and become consistently lower than 70 degrees, reduce watering days but
not sprinkler run times. Regular watering helps plants go into a
healthy dormancy.
2. Weeds in lawns and surrounding areas put on
deep growth in the fall to get them through the winter, so get a jump on
next year’s weeds and remove them now. Hand dig or spot treat.
3.
Fallen leaves left on lawns for months is not recommended. Not only can
they be slippery when wet, but they also smother lawns leading to more
issues in the spring, plus leaves hide animal waste.
Dried leaves are considered garden treasures by
those in the know. Try mowing them into the lawn. When making several
mowing passes over the lawn dried leaves leave little bits of themselves
which will only break down further over the winter and add valuable
organic matter and nutrients to the soil. Dried leaves can also be mowed
and bagged for use in exposed soil locations such as vegetable or
annual beds to reduce soil erosion and provide protection as a winter
“bed.” Use leaves as mulch around perennials and new plantings. Dried
leaves make excellent additions to compost piles.
Peonies can grow in the same location for many years if they are
happy with the location, sun and are not overly crowded. (Betty Cahill,
Special to The Denver Post)
As
we close in on the fall equinox, it looks like the hot summer of 2024
might be waning. But I would not bet the farm on warm temperatures going
away entirely. September and October have yin and yang weather. One day
it might be in the 80s; the next day snow.
Since you’re already
outside harvesting fruits, vegetables and herbs, might as well add these
fall garden chores to the daily garden fun.
The
best bulb quality and selection is on store shelves is now; if you wait
too long, whatever is left unsold generally goes on sale. (Betty
Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
Bulbs:
The two most common and must-do fall errands are to shop for spring
bulbs and plant before the Halloween decorations go up; otherwise
they’ll dry out and shrivel like the scary witch display. The best bulb
quality and selection is on store shelves is now; if you wait too long,
whatever is left unsold generally goes on sale. Promise yourself to
plant the bargain bulbs before mashing the potatoes on Thanksgiving Day.
Perennials: Next, while you’re shopping for bulbs check out the sales aisle and pick up bargain perennials, trees and shrubs.
New
fall plants appreciate the long cooler weeks to put down roots so that
next year they are ready to take off and do their thing. Sale plants
might be rootbound in the container, so be sure to “tease” or rough up
the roots. In some cases, you may need to use sharp scissors or a knife
and make cuts through circling roots. This method, along with teasing
and roughing up, helps the plant grow new roots into the surrounding
soil.
New evergreen trees and shrubs planted in the fall will need
your utmost care and attention over the winter since they continue to
transpire. That is, move water through their green needles (leaves),
(Rread more on winter watering below.)
Divide: Next up is plant dividing, so next year
they’ll have a huge head start. The plants will look like they belonged
in their new location all along.
Some of the best plants to fall
divide include spring and early summer blooming perennials like peony,
columbine, salvia, catmint, daylilies, daisies, coreopsis and bee balm.
Wait until spring to divide and replant late-summer perennials and fall
bloomers like asters, mums, bachelor’s button, goldenrod, and more.
Water established plants a day or two before dividing or moving so the roots stay together better for the move.
Peonies
can grow in the same location for many years if they are happy with the
location, sun and are not overly crowded. Fall dividing or moving
peonies is sometimes necessary. This is not difficult to do. However,
there are some important tips to follow.
First, cut off the top green growth to near ground
level. If the entire peony plant is dug up and moved, try to get all the
roots and replant them at the same depth in its new location.
When dividing, look at the crown of the plant and notice the pinkish
buds (or eyes). Use a knife to divide the plant so there are at least
three buds or more in each division that will be replanted.
Plant divided peonies close to the surface, only 1 to 1 1/2 inches
deep, and cover the buds with 1 inch of soil. Be sure to water well and
mulch after transplanting. Remember that peonies bloom best in sunny
locations, and transplants may take a season or two to rebloom.
Take
stem cuttings, also called slips, while annuals are still growing for
new plants next year. Cut healthy 6-inch or so growth from geranium
plants, plucking the lowest leaves, and place in small containers with
fresh potting soil. (Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
Annuals:
Why say goodbye forever to summer annuals in a few weeks? Take stem
cuttings, also called slips, while plants are still growing for new
plants next year. Cut healthy 6-inch or so growth from geranium plants,
plucking the lowest leaves, and place in small containers with fresh
potting soil. Using a rooting hormone (sold in garden centers) on the
section planted in soil is helpful but not required. Place the cuttings
in bright light and keep plants moist. Also take cuttings from coleus,
fibrous begonias, sweet potato vine and place in water until rooted,
then pot up into containers with potting soil and grow as houseplants
near a sunny window or under indoor lights.
Watering:
One fall and winter task that is often overlooked is the need for
landscape plant fall and winter watering when natural moisture is not
around or lacking, as is often the case in Colorado. Just because the
calendar may say it is fall or winter does not mean that plants cease
needing our watering attention once the sprinkler system is turned off
or hoses are stored. Simply said: Plant roots that dry out will
eventually die out.
The most important plants to continue watering
all fall and through the winter into spring are the newest plants that
went in this immediate past spring, summer and now, fall. This is across
all categories — trees, shrubs and perennials — and includes plants
that are water-wise so will need less water once their roots are
established.
Keep records and create reminders if needed to check
on these newer plantings and keep them moist, not sopping wet. A good 2
to 3 inch layer of mulch is helpful to keep them moist and can help
prevent plants from the back and forth of freezing and thawing when
temperature swings occur.
Evidence
of environmental stress like scorched leaves, early leaf drop and early
color changes on lindens, maples and other trees are hard to ignore.
(Betty Cahill, Special to The Denver Post)
Landscape
trees, new and mature, are our most valuable landscape assets. They are
continuously being stressed, and often look it every summer into fall
from lack of natural moisture and purposeful watering. Evidence of
environmental stress like scorched leaves, early leaf drop and early
color changes on lindens, maples and other trees are hard to ignore.
These manifested stressors often are accompanied by pest or disease
issues. If stressed trees could talk to us, they would say, “Hey, I need
help, too. I’m parched and mostly ignored.”
Check to see that
trees are getting moisture down in the root zone to a depth of one foot.
Avoid overwatering all at once to compensate for lack of summer and
previous year-round watering.
Mature tree roots extend far beyond
the drip line through the landscape and into lawns and borders so keep
in mind that if nearby landscape changes have been made such as removing
or replacing turf, water needs for trees have not changed.
The
bottom line is no one has a crystal ball to know the amount of rain or
snow we’ll receive the rest of this year and next year. The best we can
do is give our plants the care they require all year long.
Betty Cahill is a freelance writer who specializes in gardening in the Rocky Mountain Region.
