Moisture is Great ... the Weeds Await

Dandelions gone to seed

If plants in our landscapes could talk after the recent rainy days, they'd say "watch me now!" My gain gauge topped out at 1.3 inches for the past three days of rain, snow and cold, no complaints. 

Weeds are just as happy and kicking into high gear growth mode. Dandelions have already bloomed and spread their progeny seed. We'll be seeing dandelions all growing season. Bindweed is up, out and weaving quickly in hard to reach places in my landscape. My attitude with bindweed is "you can grow, but you cannot hide," when I see it, I yank it hard "take that evil weed!"

Two Types of Weeds

Annual weed seeds dropped last fall will germinate this spring through mid-summer. Obviously letting them go to seed in the first place ensures their return from year to year. These include crabgrass, purslane, knotweed and common chickweed. 

Perennial weeds return every year if not removed. Common perennial weeds include dandelion, bindweed, Canada thistle, mallow and broadleaf plantain. A lot of any weeds can easily take the focus off your flower blooms. 

Weeds can host pest insects like thrips or leafhoppers which are known for carrying diseases that can infect tomatoes and several ornamental plants like purple coneflower, asters, mums and cosmos. 

Dealing with Weeds - Landscape Tips 

• Any exposed or disturbed soil or bare ground in the landscape is an invitation for weed growth. Plant open areas with shrubs or perennials (well mulched) or add hardscape features like walkways or a patio.  
• Work on growing and maintaining a healthy lawn. A few lawn weeds are okay. Overuse of broadcast herbicides may reduce lawn vigor. 
• Hand dig for immediate removal (and satisfaction), or identify the weeds and carefully spot treat with sprays. 
• Be sure to read all labels to learn if the product will work on the identified weed and for application information. 
• Products labeled as non-selective will harm or kill ornamental plants as well. Incorrect application of lawn weed products often results in areas of dead lawn. Read the label!
• Stronger horticultural vinegar and organic weed products containing botanical oils are an option and work well on weeds between flagstones.  Try boiling water over weeds in tight spaces. Repeated application may be required for tougher weeds.



Bindweed

• Never spray any products on windy days when drift can harm close by plants, pets, people, birds or fish.
• Battle bindweed even if it may take years, you’ll eventually tire it to death with consistent removal and or use of weed sprays.
• Weed fabric use is commonly used by homeowners, but weeds often grow on top of the barrier and then find their way below and through the fabric. A 2-3 inch mulch layer works well on its own to keep weeds down and they are much easier to pull. 
• Mulch is your friend; it suppresses weed growth and keeps soils cool, which also reduces watering needs. 

Many female trees including ash, honeylocust and crabapple form seeds that sprout in lawns or just about anywhere, the worst offender being Siberian elm trees. These tenacious tree weeds grow in the most peculiar spots and generally grow unnoticed until they are well rooted and difficult to remove. Mowing will keep tree seeds from maturing. Try raking and moving the mulch around where seeds are taking hold to dislodge.

Remove (cut) suckers in lawn and near tree

Suckers from aspen, sumac and other trees can become a nuisance in lawns. They take nutrients away from the main tree. Pull or cut them at any time they reappear during the growing season. Use sucker stop products on the market with care and according to label instructions.

Take note that some weeds can be culinary gourmet greens like dandelions, purslane and lamb’s quarter, which happen to be delightfully edible when young and not sprayed with herbicides.